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Frequently Asked Questions

Here are some answers to the more frequently asked questions about rat and mouse poison.

If you require further information call us on 01903 538 488 or email us at

How does rat and mouse poison work?

Which poison should I use?

Can I use poison indoors?

How should I use poison?

Where should I put traps?

What should I do with a dead rat or mouse?

How does rat and mouse poison work?

The rat and mouse poisons that we sell are anticoagulants that reduce the ability of the rodents blood to clot. Rats and mice need to feed several times on a Difenacoum poison for it to take a lethal effect. This means you have to regularly check and top-up your poison to ensure an adequate dose is always available. Our Brodifacoum based poisons can kill in one feed. These poisons are generally in block or sachet form.

Difenacoum is a compound that was developed to deal with warfarin-resistant rodents and can be used indoors or outdoors.

It is a multi-feed compound typically found in our rat and mouse poison sachets

Bromadiolone has a higher toxicity to rats and mice than many other anticoagulants and can be used indoors or outdoors.

It kills warfarin resistant mice and rats and is effective in one feeding. Can be used in wet or dry conditions in block or pellet form and is found in our rat and mouse poison sachets.

Brodifacoum is the most potent of the anticoagulants and it can be effective in one feed. It is approved for indoor use only by pest control professionals.

Which poison should I use?

Wheat Based Poisons are the cheapest to buy and usually contain difenacoum. They work well but should not be used where they could be found by poultry or birds. You should not use wheat based poisons in open bait trays outdoors. Open bait trays are too dangerous to use outdoors.

Use wheat based mouse poison in locked bait station boxes. You can prevent spillage of the poison by using sachets or block based poisons. Always anchor your bait box to the ground to prevent it being knocked and spilling bait.

Block Based Poisons have many advantages. Rats and mice like to knaw and find it very appealing. Block bait is easy to handle and is more weather-proof than wheat based products. Poison spillage is also very unusual if you use bait station boxes with wire block holders in them. If you are baiting in a garden where pets or children are present you should use block bait in a good quality lockable bait station.

Poison blocks can also be threaded on home-made wire hooks and hung under floorboards, down drains and in other locations where a bait station box cannot be placed. Make the wire hook easy to retrieve so that you can check that bait is being taken.

Can I use mouse poison indoors?

Try not to use rat and mouse poison indoors (especially near food) as the rodents may die under your floors or in your wall cavities. Whenever possible use a good quality rat or mouse trap. Humane traps are practical for indoor use. The best solution is to kill the rodents using a conventional trap and afterwards keep the premises rodent free using a good mouse and rat repeller.

Look for evidence of rodent droppings. The entry point for the rats and mice is usually through pipe-work gaps in kitchens or other holes such as air-bricks. If you know the entry point, block it with wire mesh or expanding foam. You can detect a mouse or rat run indoors by sprinkling tracking dust in the area they frequent and following the trail.

Bait your mouse traps with our specialist rat and mouse bait. Set the traps around the known entry point (outside the building if you have blocked the entry) or where you found the droppings. If you have seen several rodents you should set a number of traps.

The traps are most likely to be triggered at night. Check them before retiring and check them again each morning. If no traps are triggered, try another bait and/or move the trap to another location. If you still have droppings and no trapped rodents, they still have access to a better food source somewhere. If you have no droppings and no trapped rats or mice you have successfully excluded them from your premises.

If your rat and mouse problem is large and traps will not cut the numbers quickly enough you can try glue traps. These are not pleasant but they are effective and easy to place. You must check these at least twice a day and deal humanely with the trapped rats and mice.

How should I use rat and mouse poison?

The most common food sources for outdoor rodents are bird-feeders, food compost heaps or animal feed troughs. Remove bird-feeders and food compost heaps before starting a baiting or trapping programme otherwise the rats and mice will bypass your traps and bait.

Do not use open bait trays outdoors. The wheat based rat and mouse poisons are not weatherproof and open trays harm wildlife such as birds and hedgehogs.

Take care to select the position for your traps and bait station boxes. Rats and mice like to run along the side of walls and fences where there is plant or debris cover. If you have seen rats or mice and noted their path, place your poison or trap along it, so that they will naturally run through the trap or bait station box. Check bait station boxes each day and move them if bait is not being taken.

Once there is active feeding inspect and load the bait station boxes with fresh rat and mouse poison each day. There will come a time (usually within 7 to 10 days) when poison will stop being taken. Keep laying fresh poison and inspecting the bait station boxes for at least another week to make sure another set of rats or mice does not move in.

Once the poison has not been taken for a week you can assume the problem is over.

Where should I put traps?

Outdoor traps are very effective against the young population who are not as wary as the adults. It is useful to set at least one trap along with your poison, just to knock down the young mice and confirm that you are baiting in the correct location. Our traps work really well with our non-poisonous mouse and rat bait. The traps are compact and easy to locate in narrow runs.

Humane live-catch traps work well outdoors. Put a little bait at the entrance to the trap to tempt the rats and mice in. If the trap is on soft soil, bed it in a little to make it appear more natural. Humane traps are good at capturing adult rats and mice. Small young rodents can enter live-catch traps and not trigger the door if they are lucky.

If your live-catch trap has not been triggered but the bait has gone, young rodents are the most likely reason.

Leave traps baited for at least a week after the last catch before concluding that you have dealt with the infestation.

What should I do with a dead rat or mouse?

Poisoned rodents will sometimes be found out in the open around your property, but most will die out of sight in their nest or burrows. All dead rodents you find should immediately be double bagged and placed in a sealed waste disposal sack. Leaving them around endangers pets, wildlife and birds of prey.

Rodents carry many diseases and you should always wear gloves and wash thoroughly when you have been handling traps or working in areas where rats and mice may have been present.

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